Boot Leathers

Different Types of Boot Leathers

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Today, boots are made in an increasing array of exotic and specialty leathers. Exotic skins used are not from animals on any endangered species list.

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Alligator: Most skins are from special farms that are primarily in the United States. Some do come from state supervised hunts. The skins have an especially high gloss finish with a deep rich color. The distinctive squares are called tiles.

Aniline: Full Grain -- a.k.a. cajun leather. Tanned with aniline and vegetable oils for depth.

Antiqued Leathers: This type of leather finishing occurs where a contrasting color spot is sprayed on the leather surface. The leather is then rubbed to create highlights.

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Boarhide: A very heavy grain leather.

Brush Off Leather: Type of leather finish where the tannery adds color to the surface, then uses a brushing wheel to take off some of the coloring material which changes the color's tone.

Bull Dog: a.k.a. Nu Buc. A very tightly suede finish. The surface of the leather is actually sanded to achieve this look.

Burnish Leather: This finish develops a surface with a look of great depth. It is accomplished by actually burning the finish on the leather using high heat caused by friction.

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Calfskin: Leather made from the skins of young cattle. It is characterized by a natural fine grain. The close pores and tight fiber that make up fewer surface blemishes add value to this skin. It readily takes and holds a high luster and shine.

Cape Bison: Skin from African Buffalo, a very large ox-like animal that is found from the cape in Southern Africa to the Northern parts of Mozambique, Zimbabwe, and Southwest Africa. This leather is usually printed or suede.

Cowhide Prints: Leather that is printed to replicate exotic skins. You will see buffalo, elephant, snake, lizard and crocodile prints.

Crazyhorse: An oil stuffed pull up leather.

Crunch: This leather has been wadded, exposed to high pressure then allowed to dry. The unique pattern is formed when angled sprays are applied to the finish unevenly.

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Deer Cow: A cowhide tanned to resemble deerskin's soft supple characteristics.

Distressed Leathers: A type of finish created by scraping the leather before it is dyed. The ink turns the nicks darker, creating the leather's distinctive look. This type of finish can also be created by uneven dyeing of the leather.

Driftwood: Type of finish created by dyeing leather after a bleaching agent has burned creases into the leather. The creases turn dark and leave the leather with dark lines in it.

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Eel: Supple leather with good strength for it's light weight. Collected by fishermen from all oceans.

Elephant: Leather made from the hides of the African Elephant are only available when the herds are culled by the government. The hides are extremely heavy and thick. The surface has large indentations giving it a crinkled look. It is one of the most durable leathers available.

Elk: Leather made from the hides of elk. Elk is native to North America.

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Full-Grain Leather: Leather made from the first cut taken from the hair side of the hide from which nothing except the hair and associated epidermis has been removed. Scars, scratches or other imperfections may be lightly buffed.

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Glazed: Type of finish produced by polishing the grain surface under the heavy pressure of a roller made of agate, metal or glass.

Grubber: A very heavy, coarse suede split leather.

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Horsehide: European horsehides that are unique by possessing extreme flexibility and unusual wear characteristics (color, strength and texture).

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Kangaroo: Leather made from the hide of kangaroo. Kangaroos are native to Australia and Tasmania where they are considered pests. They are harvested by professional hunters who are issued permits by the government. Kangaroo has the highest tensile strength of any leather, (three times the strength of cowhide at the same thickness). The grain appearance is similar to that of kidskin.

Kidskin: Leather created from the skins of mature goats. This leather has great strength and resiliency in relation to its weight and degree of softness.

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Latigo: A type of leather that is tanned but does not have a finish on it.

Lizard: Made from the skin of the Teju lizard (also called the alligator lizard) that is found in South America. It is very easily shined because of the hard tiles on the surface.

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Napa: Garment weight leather that is soft and supple. Also known as Shangri-La.

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Ostrich: Skins from the flightless bird native to southern Africa. The hides are obtained from birds raised on commercial ranches. These skins are extremely desirable because of the unique grain with quill bumps.

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Paradise Snake: Also known as Karung. This type of watersnake is found in India and Ceylon. It has a lizard-like scale instead of an overlapping scale like most other snakes.

Pigskin: Leather made from the skins of pigs or hogs. It is tough and durable and has compact fibers.

Pioneer: A brand of oil retan leather. Also known as Velva Retan. After the initial tanning, the leather is subjected to hot steam in a tanning drum and then shot with hot oil and waxes. The open pores absorb these chemicals until they are saturated. This leather is primarily for work boots.

Pull-up: Type of leather where the oils migrate away from a pressure point making the leather look lighter where pulled. This is a sign of good oil content and better grade leather.

Python: A snake that is a subspecies in the Boa family. They are large, constricting, non-venomous snakes found in Africa and Asia. The skins offer many unique patterns. Both belly and back cut are used.

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- R -

Rattlesnake: These poisonous snakes are native to the United States. There are several species. Eastern, Western, and Cane Break are currently used. The snakes are collected through round-ups.

Rough-Out: Leather where the meat or flesh side of the skin is used.

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Sea Snake: A very poisonous snake that is caught in the Indian Ocean. They have paddle-like tails to adapt to their deep ocean habitat. They travel in large numbers and are caught in deep nets.

Shark: Leather made from the skins of various sharks found in warmer coastal waters. The leather has a very high resistance to abrasion and scuffing and is one of the toughest hides available.

Shrunken Shoulder: Leather taken from the shoulder of bulls. The skin is physically reduced in size and leaves the leather with a distinct pattern and texture.

Sueded Leathers: This is a type of leather tanning. The fibers of the leather are separated in order to give the leather a nap or roughened finish.

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Tamaro: Also called corrected grain. The grain of the leather is sanded smooth before finishing.

Teak: Refers to a leather with a sprayed and buffed finish. It gives the leather an antique look.

Tigersnake: A type of watersnake found in Southeast Asia. Also known as Chouri.

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Vipers: Venomous snake native to Europe and Asia. The most popular viper is the cobra.

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Water Buffalo: Mammal from the India Subcontinent and Indo-China. The leather holds a print somewhat better than cowhide.

Whipsnakes: A member of the watersnake family, native to Asia.

Watersnake: Refers to the species of snake known as Aires native to Southeast Asia. All watersnakes are caught twice a year during the monsoons using nets.

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Boot Care for Different Types of Leathers

Anteater:
The anteater is a unique exotic whose membrane between cells tends to rise from the leather. This creates the look of neatly depressed scales. Anteater is a comfortable boot suitable for any casual occasion. It is also becoming accepted in many formal occasions. More adventuresome than alligator! Wipe with a cloth or sock after wear. Condition with delicate cream or leather balm. Polish with cream polish.

Bullhide:
Also known as shoulder leather, this boot is made from the prime leather of the cow. Cut from back towards the belly in better boots to allow tight entry (Your foot snaps into place) Then gives a relaxed fit on the arches once into the boot. Bullhide will have a twisted sort of grain allowing flex in all directions. A toe stitch keeps the vamp breaking with your foot. Bullhide is a bit thicker than dress leathers and exotics. This allows working in brush without thorns cutting through the boot easily. The boot cleans and polishes well for an all around boot. Clean and condition with leather balm or lexol. Uses matching cream polish to allow breathability. Snowseal or mink oil to seal the porosity.

Calf:
Cowhide known for soft comfort while maintaining shape. Treated to take a shine, calf should be used for dress or casually in mostly indoor events. Dust often. Clean and condition with leather balm. Use cream polish.

Cape Buffalo:
Widely grained lines cross the leather for a two toned effect which helps hide scratches or scars better. Usually worn casually, this buffalo will feel like softened shoulder leather. Sturdy. We recommend, especially on light dye colors, that a coat of neutral or off white cream polish be applied just after try on before wear so that scuffs will remove the polish, not the leather dye. Scars will become dark, more matching the grain lines of the medium brown or gray colors. The leather can be re-dyed by a good repair shop if deeply scuffed. Leather balm to clean and condition. Neutral or matching polish to protect.

Deer Tanned:
The leather has been treated for supple richness. Deer tannage softens cowhide for an elk or deer feel without the problems of knicks, cuts, and scrapes associated with natural elk. Clean and condition with leather balm. Use a cream polish for protection. Mink oil can be used to seal the pores if needed, but will cause dust to accumulate easily.

Eel:
15 years ago, Cultured Cowboy hated to sell eel because it seemed to tear easily. Today, the skin feels thicker and resists splitting much better. Soft, eel is sewn with a distinguished pattern of strips. Wear this boot for dress and comfort. Remember, eel comes from the waters of the earth and must be kept clean and moisturized with conditioners. Leather balm, then a cream polish.

Fashion Lizard:
Iguana and teju are often interchanged according to availability. Nocona lizards are back cut, the belly side is shown, and 3 piece vamp construction is positioned so that the scales of the hide provide natural breaking for your boot. The heel counter has a stylish capped look to match. Perfect with suits, slacks, or jeans, you can dress them up as well as relax them according to your needs. Lizard, like other reptiles, consists of hardened scales divided by soft, connecting membranes. Take extra care to keep them dusted and clean with reptile cleaner and conditioner.

Glossy Cow:
The leather has been waxed or buffed to a high shine finish. Great for spit shining. Feel will vary from slightly stiff patent finish to very soft glossy glove leathers. Keep dusted. Clean and condition with leather balm, then polish with cream or wax as desired.

Goat:
Known for the beautiful effects of burnishing this leather, goat is prized for a smooth finish dress boot. Soft and supple like calfskin, impressive, and affordable. Raised cording in the toe and top stitch supports the boot and positions broper breakover, while adding to the rich patina. Clean and condition with leather balm, and then polish with matching cream polish.

Hornback Cayman:
These boots show more texture on the vamp than traditional Alligator. Both are well accepted for the same usage as the traditional alligator cut. Alligator needs to be dusted (with your sock) after wear. Condition with reptile conditioner and cleaner and polish frequently with creams for best durability.

Kangaroo:
Kangaroo is a smooth leather with a grainy, folding outward surface, especially apparent in gray and light colors. Kangaroo is strong and lightweight, making it a popular footwear material in professional sports. Kangaroo feels like a sock with a sole, yet is very strong. The boots feel as if they instantly fit, so almost no break in period is required. Wear them anywhere, and use leather balm to clean and condition. use cream polish to shine and protect.

Oily Toro Shoulder:
Prime bullhide shoulder leather treated as an oily pull-up leather to better resist barn acids. The leather is treated with oil to help block penetration of salts, water, urea, etc. Great leather bottomed work boots. To clean excess dirt off, Use distressed leather oil to finish cleaning and conditioning. Top coat with mink oil or snow seal if desired. These leathers are a bit distressed with much color variation created by oils shifting within the leather. Knead the leather after oiling to even color tones.

Ostrich:
Ostrich is known to be one of the most comfortable exotics available. Full quill and stretch ostrich will flex with your foot like a sock with a sole. The ostrich leg feels more like a lizard boot to your foot. Full quilt ostrich is obtained from the prime leather of the ostrich back. The "Quill Marks" distinguish the look and allow large pores for better breathability. Ostrich leg comes from the thigh of the bird and creates its own natural break from the foot like python does, but with durability and feel of lizard. Smooth ostrich from the sides of the bird will have the feel of full quill, but with fewer and less raised quill pores. Use leather balm to clean and condition your ostrich, and cream polish for a protective coating.

Pitstop Work Boot:
Prime cowhide leather treated as an oily pull-up leather to better resist barn acids. The leather is treated with oil to help block penetration of salts, water, urea, etc. Great leather bottomed work boots. To clean excess dirt off, Use distressed leather oil to finish cleaning and conditioning. Top coat with mink iol or snow seal if desired. These leathers are a bit distressed with much color variation created by oils shifting within the leather. Knead the leather after oiling to even color tones. Butle outsole is a leather sole specially treated to resist abrasion better than normal leather soles, but still retaining the wonderful feel of leather.

Python:
A boot of mystique, stealth, and power. Unmistakable raised belly scales center the vamp of back cut while a smaller back scale, with patterns, unique to each pair of boots, appear on belly cut boots. Like the ostrich, python boots feel like a sock with a sole. The break in is fast and comfortable. Neutral color means it ships bleached, but will after a while return to the natural golden brown color. Since 1986, this has been Cultured Cowboy's best selling exotic boot. Great with Khaki, blue, or black jeans. Extra sharp with a matching belt, hatband, and wallet. Spray with reptile cleaner and conditioner often. The foaming action cleans dirt from under the scales and conditions at the same time. A top coated delicate cream or matching color creme polish may be applied if desired. Re-bleaching will shorten the life of the skin. Dyed colors keep their original colors.

Rattlesnake:
Western Diamondback with the back pattern of diamonds unmistakably contrasting acceptably with almost any jean or slack. A touch softer than python. Matching belts, hatband and wallets available. Natural color tones slightly with light, but not as severely as python. Care for rattlesnake as described for python. Wear causally, but with more attitude than with other snake boots.

Retan Work Boot:
Prime bullhide shoulder leather treated as an oily pull-up leather to better resist barn acids. The leather is treated with oil to help block penetration of salts, water, urea, etc. Great leather bottomed work boots. To clean excess dirt off, Use distressed leather oil to finish cleaning and conditioning. Top coat with mink oil or snow seal if desired. These leathers are a bit distressed with much color variation created by oils shifting within the leather. Knead the leather after oiling to even color tones.

Shark:
A moderate, somewhat linear grain on a very scratch resistant surface. Shark breaks in well, having a stitched vamp to help create folds in the proper locations. Keep it moisturized with delicate cream and leather balm on distressed leather oil. (It's a fish out of water!) Polish with cream polish.

Stallion:
Horsehide leather-tough enough for baseballs! Tough enough for everyday boot wear? Combined with supple tops and comfortable, breathable leather linings, Nocona has a boot for you that takes normal usage in stride while feeling great. Like all leathers, dust and clean frequently, condition with a leather balm, then use a cream polish so the boot can breathe comfortably. Wax polish can be used to seal leather's natural porosity.

Stingray:
A pebble type surface with a bright "star" on top of each vamp distinguishing the stingray exotics from all the others. The finish is the most scratch and abrasion resistant of all leathers. Stingray may feel a little stiff, like early patent leather, but will break in well with a couple of days wear. Make sure you always break them in on carpet, if you are unsure of the fit. That way they are returnable and re-sellable. Thanks. Remember that stiffer, abrasion resistant will usually feel snug in the ball and instep while slipping some in the heel, more so at first, then softer finishes. This boot is perfect for men like me who always seem to find everything possible to scar my boots. It looks for a long time. Stylish enough to wear with my business suits, but casual enough to wear to the club. Always a conversation piece, expensive enough to be a bit exclusive. A real easy keeper! Moisturize often with delicate cream or leather balm. Polish with cream polish of matching color.

Suave Calf:
Cowhide known for soft comfort while maintaining shape. Treated to take a shine, calf should be used for dress or casually in mostly indoor events. Dust often. Clean and condition with leather balm. Use cream polish.

Veal Work Boot:
The leather has been treated for supple richness. Deer tannage softens cowhide for an elk or deer feel without the problems of knicks, cuts, and scrapes associated with natural elk. Clean and condition with leather balm. Use a cream polish for protection. Mink oil can be used to seal the pores if needed, but will cause dust to accumulate easily

Vintage Steer:
Cowhide known for soft comfort while maintaining shape. Treated to take a shine, calf should be used for dress or casually in mostly indoor events. Dust often. Clean and condition with leather balm. Use cream polish.