GREAT TIPS TO HELP YOU CARE FOR YOUR PLANTS
GARDENER'S HANDBOOK INDEX
WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR NURSERY STOCK ARRIVES
Take care of your nursery stock immediately. Thaw out gradually in its packing
if it arrives frozen. If dried out in transit, soak the entire plant in water
for a few hours or bury it in wet soil. If possible, plant at once when shipment
is received. If the weather is too cold for planting, put the box or bundle in a
cool but frostproof place. It is best to unpack the material, sprinkle the tops
and all with water, cover the roots with damp packing and cover with sacks or
canvas. If the weather is warm and you are not ready to plant, heel the stock
PREPARING THE GROUND FOR PLANTING
The ground should be spaded or plowed quite a bit deeper than the nursery stock
you are going to plant. Be sure that the hole is large enough so that bare roots
will not be crowded. Balled or container material should have 6 to 8" of space
around it. When holes are dug in sod for trees or shrubs, space 2 or 3' around
the plant and keep this cultivated or mulched for good plant growth. The soil at
the bottom of the hole should be loose to 7 or 8". Always use good soil and
humus such as peat moss, rotted cow manure or leaf-mold to fill the hole after
planting. DO NOT FERTILIZE NEWLY SET MATERIAL.
HOW TO PLANT AND CARE FOR RHUBARB
Plant in rich, well limed garden soil. Plant rhubarb divisions 3 feet apart so
crown is 1 to 3" below the surface of the soil. Give plenty of moisture, clean
cultivation, and feed generously yearly. No stalks should be pulled until the
HEEL-IN TREES AND SHRUBS WHEN NECESSARY
If you cannot plant nursery stock soon after it arrives it is best to "heel" it
in someplace where it will have protection from the sun and wind. This temporary
planting will help retard development. Remove all packing material and grass
that might harbor mice or insects. Spread out the roots as you would in a
permanent planting and fill in with pulverized earth, set firmly. Be sure to
keep the earth moist until you are ready to plant permanently.
HOW TO PLANT GROUND COVERS CREEPING RED SEDUM AND PERIWINKLE
Spade planting area thoroughly and deeply. Plant carefully, spreading roots well
apart. Set plants 1' apart for fast coverage. Water regularly until plants are
well established. Sedum prefers sun or partial shade. Periwinkle like the shade
but will grow in partial shade.
CREEPING PHLOX AND ORANGE GLORY - Prepare soil in sunny,
well-drained area. Plant the divisions 6-12" apart for a thick tidy mat.
CROWNVETCH - Prepare soil in area of full sun or semi-shade. Use
one crown for each 4 sq. ft. Water well for three to four weeks till plants
SPREADING EVERGREEN AND COTONEASTER - Use one plant to cover 3-4'
of well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. Follow suggestions for evergreen
HOW TO PLANT BARE ROOT TREES
Remove paper and moss (if plant is in a plastic bag remove this), prune any
broken or damaged roots. Dig generous sized holes with perpendicular sides, put
the good surface dirt to one side so that it can be used around the roots.
Loosen up the soil in the bottom of the hole. Set trees one or two inches deeper
than they stood in the nursery; set shrubs at about the same depth they stood in
the nursery or slightly deeper. Spread roots out naturally and work soil over
and around them. Keep putting in good dirt until the hole is nearly full,
tramping the dirt firmly about the roots. Fill the hole with water. Finally fill
up the hole with loose dirt leaving a saucer-like depression to retain water. A
2" mulch of peat or straw material on top is beneficial. Do not fertilize until
second year when feeding roots are established. Water stock two or three times a
week throughout the first year except in winter when watering should be done
when the ground is thawed.
HOW TO PLANT SHADE TREES
Always prune to keep the normal shape of the tree. Cut just above a bud or close
to a twig, branch or trunk. Look for ways to cut away small branches that are
crowding the others. Try to shape branches into a well-developed head with a
strong leader and branches at wide angles. Be sure to keep the central leader.
Prune away the broken roots. Set tree slightly deeper than it formerly stood.
Pack soil firmly about the roots in a hole large enough for the roots to spread
out. Trees that are over 8 ft. tall should be staked to brace them from the
wind. A wire that is run through a rubber hose will prevent cutting the bark.
Protect the tree trunks of smooth barked trees from sun scald by using a
commercial tree wrap. Collars of hardware cloth will protect trunks from rabbit
damage in winter.
HOW TO PLANT FRUIT TREES
Plant fruit trees where they will have plenty of sunshine and air. Pruning at
planting time consists only of cutting back a few of the branches to balance
roots and top of trees. Light annual pruning is preferable to heavy cutting
every few years. Try not to cut sharp angle crotches where branches join trunk
as these might split with load of fruit. Pruning should open up trees so
sunlight can color the fruit and give free circulation of air. Bush fruits
should be planted 4' to 5' apart and tops of plants cut off about half. Plant
apple and cherry trees 30' to 40' apart, apricot, pears, plums and peaches 20'
HOW TO PLANT AND CARE FOR EVERGREENS
If you can't plant your evergreens as soon as you get them, wet the packing and
cover with sacks or straw to keep them from drying out. Trim off any injured
roots. Dig the hole deep and wide enough so that the roots aren't crowded. Plant
the evergreens about 1" deeper than they had been planted at the nursery.
Evergreens are not hard to grow but there are some factors to be considered to
help prevent evergreen failure:
WATER - First-year evergreens should never be allowed to dry
out. Water 2-3 times a week with long soakings that thoroughly saturate the soil
around the roots.
SOIL CONDITIONS - Most soil around the house comes from
basement diggings which will not support plant life. Use a well-balanced
fertilizer as directed on the package.
SUN - Most evergreens are grown in open fields for their first
few years. When they are transplanted near a house where they are in shade for
several hours each day the resulting change may be harmful. It may be necessary
to use a good, balanced fertilizer to supplement the changed environment.
PETS - Perhaps the most common cause of evergreen failure is
the injury caused by pets. Damage from pets can kill evergreens in a matter of
Follow planting instruction for planting bare root trees. Set shrubs at about
the same depth they stood in the nursery or slightly deeper. Most shrubs should
be thinned out at the top to remove old wood. Cut tops back about 1/3 to 1/2. Be
sure to keep roots well watered throughout the first year.
In the Orient Tree Peonies are called "King of the
Flowers". Unlike ordinary Peonies they do not die back to the ground each year
but form a woody deciduous shrub that will grow three to four feet tall. CARE:
Although Tree Peonies prefer a well-drained location, they should be watered
well all season. They should be mulched well the first winter after planting.
HOW TO PLANT HEDGES
For single row, dig trench 18" to 2' deep or more, depending on size of plant.
For larger shrubs such as the Russian Olive it is often more practical to dig
individual holes than to set by the trench method. Break up soil and add
fertilizer. Allow plenty of room between each plant for future development.
Space smaller plants 10" to 12" apart. Larger plants 2' to 3'. First pruning is
highly important. Be sure to taper sides toward top leaving widest part at
bottom. Thus, adequate light is assured on lower branches to make good uniform
SOIL: Perennials require a deep, well-drained garden soil that
retains moisture. Work soil well, 2' to 2 1/2' deep.
PLANTING: An ample sized hole in a sunny location is best. Roots
should be spread well apart and the soil brought in contact with the
roots and pressed firmly. After planting, the plants should be
thoroughly watered and lightly mulched. The average planting distance
for perennials is 1' apart. Vigorous growers such as peonies require as
much as 3'.
CARE AFTER PLANTING: Water and fertilize plants regularly
throughout the growing season. Begin cultivation early and continue all
season. Mulch with hay, straw or leaves after the ground is frozen to
help prevent winter injury to plant.
(1) IRIS and similar plants should be planted with the
roots below the surface of the ground and the rhizome just on the
(2) PEONIES and similar plants should be planted with the
tips of the buds just below the surface of the ground, about 1". Peonies
do not bloom well if planted too deeply.
(3) Plants on which the leaves spring from a crown, such as the
SHASTA DAISY, should be planted with the crown just at the dirt
line. These plants should be protected with a mulch which does not pack
and cause leaves to rot. CHRYSANTHEMUMS and similar plants may be
mulched with sand.
(4) HOLLYHOCKS and other plants with fleshy roots should
be planted with the tap root straight down and the bud just below the
surface of the dirt. Sprinkle soil around the roots. Press firmly and
DIVIDING PERENNIALS: When plants make a rapid growth they should be
divided every few years. If they are not the clumps become too large and
the inside roots will be starved and crowded. This will produce small
blooms. Divide perennials in either fall or spring or reset.
SHADE-LOVING PLANTS: Most plants prefer full sun or partial shade. These
plants prefer the shade: Trinity Plant, Pacific Hybrid Giant Primrose,
Hypericum Hidcote, Periwinkle, Bleeding Heart, Begonias, Hosta-Funkia,
PERENNIALS WITH SPECIAL CARE REQUIREMENTS
ASTER - should be planted 18" apart in full sun or partial shade.
CARNATIONS - Plant 20" apart in full sun and well-drained soil.
CLEMATIS - Plant Clematis 3-4' apart in light loamy, well-drained
soil. (Add peat moss for best conditions.) Give vines lots of sunlight,
but shade roots with small plantings. Each spring, prune back to about
2' to speed new growth.
CUSHION MUMS - Plant 18 to 24" apart and as close to the original
depth as possible. To keep plants bushy and compact be sure to pinch out
the tip of each shoot when it has 6 to 8 leaves. Pinching should be
stopped after July 15.
DAISIES - Plant 20" apart in full sun or partial shade. Need good
DELPHINIUM (Hybrid) - should be planted about 2' apart and as
deeply as formerly planted. Flower stalks should be staked.
HIBISCUS - Plant in full sun in well-fertilized loam with sand and
peat added. Water generously, especially in month preceding flowering.
IRIS - Plant iris 8-18" apart in well-drained soil in full sun.
Plant very shallow with the rhizomes just barely covered with soil.
Divide every 3 to 5 years.
LYTHRUM - Plant 20" apart in moist locations in full sun or
LUPINES - Should be planted 20" apart in partial shade. Prefer
ORIENTAL POPPIES - Should be planted 15-18" apart. Set crowns
approximately 2" below the level of the ground.
PEONIES - Plant Peonies in rich soil in full sun. Spade
thoroughly, adding fertilizer deep below the surface. The eyes of the
Peonies should be no more or less than 1 1/2 - 2" below the surface of
the soil. This is necessary for proper growth. Water thoroughly.
PHLOX (Tall) - Plants should be spaced approximately 2' apart.
Crown of plant should be covered by 1-2" of soil. Plants should be
sprayed with sulphur every two weeks throughout the summer.
ROSES - Plant Roses immediately upon arrival. If not possible heel
in until they can be planted. IMPORTANT: Keep roots covered until ready
to be placed in soil. Broken, dried or decayed roots should be trimmed.
Hole should be large enough so roots are not crowded - about 15" wide
and 12" deep. Do not place plant so deep that any branches are covered.
The roots should be spread out and the soil sifted around them. Add
water when filling in soil. When completely covered, add more water.
Mound up soil around plant 5" to 6" to prevent tops from drying out.
Prune tops. Plant hybrid tea roses 18" to 21" apart. Hybrid perpetuals
21" to 24" apart. Plant climbers 6' to 8' apart.
TREE HYDRANGEA AND TREE ROSE OF SHARON - Strong growing plants
such as Hydrangea (Hydrangea P.G.) and Rose of Sharon (Hybiscus
Syriacus) may be grown in tree form. Generally, it is best to remove all
canes except for the strongest. Then place a stake beside the plant and
securely tie the branch to the stake. Keep all side branches cut off and
continue to tie the trunk to the stake as it grows. When the trunk has
reached the desired height allow several lateral branches to develop.
Prune these as necessary to keep the tree from becoming top heavy. The
stake may be removed after the trunk is strong enough to support the
MAGNOLIAS NEED SPECIAL CARE
Protect Magnolia trees from the cold winter winds by planting them on
the south or south-east side of the house, NEVER ON THE NORTH. It is
extremely important to cover the roots with leaves or straw or burlap
for extra protection.
BULBS AND TUBERS
Summer flowering bulbs like the warm weather. To get an early start, you
may plant Cannas, Tuberous Begonias and Dahlias in flats indoors. Set
out after the danger of frost is past. Plant Glads at 10 day intervals
throughout growing season. (Allow 70 to 90 days to mature).
These prefer a well drained loose sandy loam with a top dressing of
manure. Plant base rooting types 4-6" deep, stem rooting types 5-8"
deep. Tip bulbs slightly on their sides and add a few handfuls of sand
to provide good drainage around the bulb. They may be left in ground
year to year.
TORCH LILY - Plant 24" apart.
TIGER LILY - Plant 7-9" deep in most types of lime-free soils that
have a lot of humus. Needs plenty of moisture in growing season.
BULBS AND TUBERS WITH SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS
TUBEROUS BEGONIA - Shelter from direct sun or strong wind or set
them in hanging baskets in shady area. Start indoors thru March.
DAHLIA, CANNA - Like full sun, rich garden soil with plenty of
humus. Water generously in growing season.
GLADIOLUS, EXOTICA, GLADENTHERA - Plant in full sun. Water
sparingly - about 2 or 3 times a week. Plant corms 3" deep in spring
after first frost.
OXALIS - Plant in pots or outdoors after danger of frost is past
in any moist soil. Water generously. Likes full sun or half shade.
MADERIA VINE - A rapid-growing, branching, twining vine. Grows
indoors in hanging baskets or outdoors in warm weather on fence or
MYSTERIA (Crocus Zonata) - Grows without sun, soil or water. Put
on shelf or table and it will bloom in a few weeks after you receive
HOW TO STORE BULBS
After first frost, dig, clean, dry and store for winter in damp peat and
PLANTING BROAD LEAFED EVERGREENS, AZALEAS, HOLLY, RHODODENDRONS, CAMELLIAS,
AND MOUNTAIN LAUREL
These are all plants that grow best in acid soil (ph factor 4.2 to 5.2).
This can be obtained by adding partially decayed oak leaves and acid
peat or Ferrous Sulfate. Plant in a moist, well-drained light soil with
a high proportion of humus. These plants are shallow rooted and should
never be cultivated. Plant them high and maintain at least a 3" mulch
Pruning the tips of the branches before new growth starts will help to
keep shrubbery thick. If necessary, head back longer growth. The removal
of fading flower clusters will prevent seeds from forming on Laurels,
Rhododendrons and Andromedas. This is usually all the pruning that will
A FEW UNUSUAL PLANTS
AIR PLANT LEAVES - Place leaves on a table or shelf and watch as
tiny plants sprout from the notches, sending roots out into the air.
These do not need soil or water and will soon be big enough to put into
pots to grow.
DWARF FIGS - The root of this plant is hardy anywhere but the top
will die back in weather below 5 degrees F. In colder areas, plant the
Fig in a container so it can be moved to shelter to ripen fruit and
protect the top. Fig plants fruit in 2 years when grown in containers
and fruit the first year when grown outdoors.
RESURRECTION PLANT - Put in water for 24 hours when it arrives. It
will grow to about 8" across in 24 hours! Transplant in soil.
THE GROWING OF SMALL FRUITS
All fruit plants prefer a deep, well-drained soil. Full sun and room to
grow will help your fruit produce in abundance.
CURRENTS AND GOOSEBERRIES - These plants do best in a cool, moist,
partially-shaded location. Set in spring or fall. Plant in spring before
buds begin to grow. Prune off damaged roots and cut tops back to 10".
Set lower branches just a little below the soil level to encourage them
to develop in bush form. Space 4 to 6' apart. Fertilize well when you
plant, water when necessary and mulch.
ELDERBERRIES - Plant 2 for cross-pollination. Likes moist,
well-drained soil. Prune to thin out old wood, to prevent crowding.
RED AND BLACK RASPBERRIES AND BLACKBERRIES - Keep roots wet until
you are ready to plant them. Then trim off broken roots and the tops
back to about 6". Dig hole and spread roots out fan-wise. Firm soil well
about roots. Plant 3 to 5' apart in 6' rows. Set Red Raspberries 1 t 2"
deeper than they were in the nursery and set Black Raspberries 1"
deeper. Set Blackberries just about as deep as they grew at the nursery.
Plant in soil that has lots of humus in it. Plant so there will be free
air movement during the growing season in order to lower humidity. This
helps discourage fungus diseases. Never let the ground dry out.
Cultivate early in the season and after the plants are established.
Toward midsummer, start mulching with materials such as grass clippings.
This helps to keep weeds down and to conserve moisture. If left unpruned
berries will become a mass of brambles. After fruiting each year, cut
out the old canes and burn them. Leave a few vigorous new canes for the
fruit to grow on the following year. These fruiting canes should be cut
back to about 2 1/2' in early spring in order to encourage fruiting
BOYSENBERRIES AND DEWBERRIES - May be trained on 4' high stakes or
on a 2 or 3-wire trellis. DEWBERRIES are planted much the same as
Blackberries. Cut back to about 6" and space 6' apart. Place
BOYSENBERRIES 8' apart. Keep young shoots of present year's growth on
the ground and fastened with wire brackets to keep them out of the way.
Loop fruiting canes over trellis and cut off after bearing. The second
year, as the new canes develop, let them lie on the ground as the first
year. After old canes have born fruit cut and burn. Select 14 or 15
canes for the next season's crop from the new canes. Tie new canes to
trellis in mild climate and cover with hay in colder areas. Fertilize
with well-rotted manure or compost in spring. Work into the soil around
BLUEBERRIES - These do best in a cool, moist climate that does not have
hot dry winds. The soil should be moist, light textured, and contain a
high proportion of organic matter, with acidity testing from ph 4.0 to
4.5. (We recommend mixing soil with liberal amount of peat moss and
Ferrous Sulfate). Plant in spring or fall, using 2 varieties or more for
good pollination. Mulch each year with 3 to 4" of sawdust or peat.
Blueberries have a shallow root system so a shallow cultivation is
required. Plant in sun for good yields. Prune annually after 4th year -
cutting back damaged wood to healthy, strong growth.
GRAPES - Plant early in the spring, 6' apart, digging the hole broad and
deep. Cut back the top to 2 or 3 strong buds. Plant deep enough to keep
the roots from drying out. Fill hole with a rich soil or compost. Place
dirt firmly about the roots and water well. Keep cultivated through the
first season. After vines become established, mulch with straw, leaves
or ground corn cobs. A well decomposed manure is the best fertilizer.
But do not apply if vines are making excessive growth. A moderate growth
of canes which mature early is preferred. Prune annually while dormant
(before buds start to swell). The fruit clusters form from buds on
1-year old canes. Canes that have borne fruit will not bear again so
prune those off leaving approximately four new canes on each plant. To
prune properly 80 to 90% of the wood must be removed. PLANT JUST ABOVE
SECOND BUD. HINT: Grow on a good sturdy trellis or fence giving grapes
good air circulation to prevent rot and mildew.
HOW TO PLANT STRAWBERRIES
Plant in fertile, well cultivated soil. Set the plant with the crown
just at the surface of the soil. Be sure roots are spread out fan-shaped
and hang down full length without crowding. For the garden set them at 2
foot intervals. Mulch them with 3 or 4" of straw in the fall. The mulch
can be left on the next season to retain moisture and keep down weeds.
HOW TO PLANT ASPARAGUS
Set roots 4" below surface. Cover crown of roots only 2" when planting
and rake more soil in after new shoots are a few inches high. Fertilize
with manure yearly. Don't cut stalks until the third year and then only
lightly. When bed is mature (after third year) cut all stalks regularly
until June 1st. Then stop cutting completely to allow bed to develop for
AFTER YOU PLANT
CULTIVATE - Control weeds with frequent, shallow cultivation. This
will produce a dust mulch that conserves the much needed moisture in
MULCH - A mulch of peat, grass clippings, manure with straw in it,
marsh hay or compost may be used instead of a dust mulch for ornamental
trees, shrubs and evergreens.
WATER - Give plants all the water the soil can absorb at one time.
Evergreens, especially, need to be given ample water in late fall before
freezing begins. It is important to give to plantings plenty of water
during dry spells. This will be necessary for the first several years.
FERTILIZE - Trees should be fertilized regularly AFTER THE FIRST
YEAR. Use one-quarter of a pound of commercial nitrate fertilizer per
year of growth. This can be broadcast under the spread of the branches
in the spring.
The principal purpose of pruning trees and shrubs is to improve the
structure. Try to obtain a uniform spacing of the main stems and
branches. Thin out the weak growth. Eliminate weak crotches. Raise the
head of the tree gradually by removing lowest branches. Start about 2
years after you plant to carefully prune the lower branches. If pruned
when shade trees are young, the scars will become almost invisible. The
lower branches should be at least 7 feet above the ground so that you
can walk under them. You can keep shrubs shapely and restricted by
heading-in the young growth. Shrubs should be pruned by removing ONLY
THE OLD WOOD to the ground.
These may be kept thick and shapely and their growth restricted to suit
your purpose by pinching back a part of the tender, new growth. Cut back
evergreen hedges whenever the growth is becoming irregular and out of
CULTURE AND CARE OF DAYLILIES
Daylilies are fibrous-rooted, hardy, herbaceous perennials. Their roots
look like fingers, varying in size from tiny and threadlike to large,
rounded and fleshy. There is a crown at the junction where the leaves
and roots join. The leaves are long and grow more or less in the shape
of a fan.
Plant your daylilies in full sun. They can tolerate partial shade, but
they need at least 6 hours of direct sun per day.
The soil where you plant to plant your daylilies should be worked into a
good loose condition about 1 foot deep. Mix well-rotted manure or
compost, good garden soil, and peat moss. Make a mound in the center of
the hole and set your daylily with the roots spread on each side of the
mound. You should NOT plant the crown more than one inch below the
surface of the soil. Firmly work the soil around and between the roots
and water well. Make sure there are no air pockets.
Plant your daylilies 18 to 24 inches apart to avoid over-crowding as
your clumps mature.
DAYLILY DO'S AND DON'TS
DO..... Soak plants in water for 4-6 hours before planting.
DON'T.. Plant daylilies around broadleafed trees. They compete for
moisture and nutrients.
DO..... Water daylilies during the heat of summer for more
colorful and larger flowers.
DON'T.. Cut daylily foliage back until Spring when all danger of
frost is over. The foliage shades the roots in the summer and protects
the roots in the winter.
DO..... Use aged compost/manure or a 5-10-10 fertilizer for
DON'T.. Use high nitrogen fertilizers as they make for weak flower
stems and dull bloom color.
CULTURE AND CARE OF IRISES
Irises prefer a sunny location with well-drained soil, although they
will grow and normally flower in partial shade. Good soil preparation is
important. Work well-rotted manure or compost one foot deep into the
iris bed. Apply bonemeal or lime into the top of the soil along with a
high phosphorus-type fertilizer.
Plant rhizomes flat with the roots spreading out and slightly downward
just below the ground level. Cover the rhizome base halfway up leaving
the top part of the rhizome exposed to the sun. Water irises gently but
Spacing should be six to eight inches apart pointing the growing tips
away from others if a clump effect is desired. Irises spread to the side
and behind the growing tip.
Each fall, prepare your irises for winter by adding a two to three inch
layer of compost around them. Loosen and remove carefully this mulch in
spring. Then fertilize in spring with a well-balanced fertilizer
(10-10-10 or 6-6-6 or something similar). Fertilize each August with a
high phosphorus fertilizer.
Once the flowers fade, remove the flower stems. After the first frost,
cut the foliage off leaving four to six inches. This remaining foliage
is commonly called the "fan".
Over-crowding of the iris bed occurs every three to five years depending
on the fertility and initial spacing in your irises. Divide and replant
irises during August. Using sharp scissors or pruning shears, trim the
foliage back to four to six inches when replanting.
WHY DO MY IRISES FAIL TO BLOOM?
1. Under normal conditions we experience 80% of the irises blooming the
first year. Proper cultural practices will usually promote 100% bloom
beginning with the second season.
2. Not receiving at least six to eight hours of good sunlight each day.
If necessary, change your planting location to a sunnier spot.
3. Over-crowding robs the irises of proper nutrients. To prevent this,
replant and thin rhizomes.
4. Poor soil fertility may result in poor blooms. Be sure to fertilize
properly twice a year.
5. Damage to the flower bud by extreme cold weather conditions,
especially late-to-hard frosts. Winter mulching with compost helps
prevent this type of damage.
6. Poorly drained soil, which can be corrected by adding compost, sand
and/or by creating a raised bed.
7. Damage in fall to blooms set to flower next spring. This is sometimes
caused by incorrect foliage removal in fall. To prevent this, carefully
trim back foliage after the first frost with sharp scissors or pruning
shears, leaving a fan four to six inches tall.
CULTURE AND CARE OF ORIENTAL POPPIES
Oriental poppies are extremely drought and heat tolerant. They grow from
stout tap-roots that enable them to store water for dry periods.
Plant poppies where you want a bold accent. They are very dominant in
the landscape when blooming, and we suggest planting them with
summer-blooming perennials that will fill in the gap when the poppy
foliage dies back after blooming. Oriental poppies prefer a sunny
location with well-drained soil, although in the South, they will grow
and bloom in partial shade. Good soil preparation is important. Work
well-rotted manure or aged compost into the poppy bed. Apply bonemeal or
lime into the top of the soil along with a high phosphorous-type
Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the poppy's taproot, keeping the
crown 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Fill the hole with soil and
tamp firmly but gently to make sure there are no air pockets. Water
gently, but thoroughly. Mulch the first winter to prevent the soil from
ORIENTAL POPPY FACT SHEET
BOTANICAL NAME: Papaver orientale
FLOWERING TIME: Early summer (June in most areas)
HEIGHT; SPREAD: 2-3 ft. tall; 2 ft. wide
SPACING: 15-20 inches apart. Best planted alone or in groups of 3
along with later blooming perennials.
POSITION: Full sun, well-drained soil. Established plants are
tough and long-lived.
COMPANION PLANTS: Asters, Baby's Breath, Bellflowers, Phlox,
CUT FLOWERS: Make magnificent bouquets if you sear the bottom 2-3
inches of the stem with a match and then put into a pail of 100 degree