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Cats

Do's and Don'ts

10 Most Hazardous Foods for Cats

As cat owners, we love to show our furry friends how much we care by sharing our food with them. However, not all human foods are safe for cats to consume. In fact, many of the foods that we enjoy can be extremely dangerous and even deadly for our feline friends. It’s important to be aware of the foods that are toxic to cats and to keep them out of reach. In this article, we’ll explore the 10 most dangerous foods that you should never feed your cats. From chocolate and onions to grapes and raisins, we’ll cover the reasons why these foods can be harmful and the symptoms to watch out for if you suspect your cat has ingested any of them. By being informed and taking the necessary precautions, we can help keep our feline friends happy, healthy, and safe. Check out most hazardous foods for cats.

10 – Chocolate

Chocolate contains theobromine, which is toxic to cats. The darker the chocolate, the higher the concentration of theobromine, making it more dangerous. Symptoms of chocolate poisoning in cats include vomiting, diarrhea, increased thirst, and restlessness. In severe cases, it can cause seizures, heart problems, and death.

09 – Onions and Garlic

Both onions and garlic contain compounds that can damage a cat’s red blood cells, leading to anemia. Eating even small amounts can cause damage, and the effects are cumulative, so it’s best to avoid giving your cat these foods altogether.

08 – Grapes and Raisins

Although the exact cause is unknown, grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure in cats. Even a small amount can be toxic, so it’s important to keep them away from your feline friends.

07- Alcohol

Alcohol can cause severe health problems in cats, including vomiting, diarrhea, and even death. Just a small amount can lead to serious health problems, so it’s best to keep it far away from your cats.

06 – Cooked Bones

Cooked bones can splinter and cause blockages or tears in a cat’s digestive system. They can also cause choking.

05 – Avocados

Avocados contain persin, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea in cats. They are also high in fat, which can lead to pancreatitis.

04 – Fatty Foods

Fatty foods, such as bacon and sausage, can cause digestive problems, including vomiting and diarrhea. They can also lead to pancreatitis, a potentially life-threatening condition.

03 – Xylitol

This artificial sweetener, commonly found in sugar-free gum and candies, can cause a rapid insulin release in cats, leading to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). Symptoms of xylitol poisoning include vomiting, loss of coordination, and seizures.

02 – Raw Fish

Raw fish contains an enzyme that can break down a cat’s thiamine, leading to a deficiency and potentially life-threatening neurological problems. It can also contain harmful bacteria that can cause food poisoning.

01 – Milk and Dairy Products

Although cats are sometimes depicted drinking milk in movies and cartoons, the truth is that most adult cats are lactose intolerant. Consuming dairy products can cause digestive upset, including vomiting and diarrhea.

In conclusion, it’s important to stick to a nutritionally balanced diet for your feline friends and avoid giving them these 10 dangerous foods. If you suspect your cat has consumed any of these foods, seek veterinary care immediately.

How to care for a kitten or cat

There are a number of things that contribute to the well-being of your cat, and providing for it properly from day one will ensure it is healthy and adapts well to its new home.
There are a number of things that contribute to the well-being of your cat, and providing for it properly from day one will ensure it is healthy and adapts well to its new home.

Important items

When you first bring your cat home, you will need the basics. These include:

Baskets: This means comfortable bedding where the kitten or cat will be comfortable and safe. Raise it off the ground, preferably, somewhere where the kitten will feel safe, away from any drafts or areas where there is too much coming and going.

Litter boxes: This needs to be deep enough and with a small shovel to remove the stool, although not too deep that kittens are dissuaded from using it.

Water bowls: A bowl of fresh water should be available to your cat at all times. Water fountains are available as an alternative to bowls as cats are known to particularly enjoy the movement and it encourages them to drink more.

Food bowls: You should ensure you have a small bowl for kibbles, placed far enough away from the water bowl to prevent it getting dirty. Alternatively, a feeding puzzle can be introduced, especially if you have an indoor car, to provide mental and physical stimulation, fulfilling their natural hunting instinct. With these puzzles, a transition period is necessary for your cat to learn how to use them.

A cat tree: An accessory that is both fun and useful for your cat and will allow them to scratch, climb and hide safely, and will contribute to the positive well-being of your cat by respecting their natural instincts.

It's recommended to get more than one of each item and disperse them around the home to offer your new cat choice and allow them to find a quiet space away from visitors or loud noises, should they need to.

Environment

Environment is an important part of the health and well-being of your cat. A favorable environment is one in which the cat can become safely socialized without too many problems, and that helps them get used to the people and the things around them.

Even when it is very young, your cat will organize and mark out its territory. This is where it will sleep, play, hunt, feed, hide, climb and be cuddled. In its home, your cat organizes its life around four different areas which you need to respect to avoid behavior problems, particularly for indoor cats.

Feeding areas: These must be in quiet areas, away from its litter box and from your own eating area. It is better to avoid using the dining room or areas where they may be disturbed and allow your cat plenty of space when eati

Resting area: The place will vary in the course of the day depending on the sunlight and sources of heat. By nature, cats like to sleep up high, and will often choose the spot that suits them most, so make sure they have plenty of free space to choose from.

Cleaning area: The litter box must be placed somewhere quiet and permanently accessible by your cat, away from its food bowl and places where there is a lot of coming and going. Be careful to avoid any source of stress: cats have been known to become unclean because the litter box was installed next to the washing machine. At least one litter tray per cat, plus one spare, is recommended to give each cat plenty of choice and avoid these issues.

Play area: This is your cat's largest living space and relaxation area. It must be a place where it can race around, hide or perch high up. Cat trees are excellent accessories to encourage this activity and support your cat's health and well-being.

Exercise

Cats who stay indoors need plenty of activity to remain physically and mentally stimulated. That means:

Lots of toys, rotated from time to time to keep them interested, things to climb and hide in, and regular playtimes with the family every day

Because they groom more and tend to be more sedentary, indoor cats, especially those with long hair, need a diet that can help with hairballs and reflects their lower activity levels

You may not welcome the scars your cat can leave on your furniture or walls. However, scratching is a natural behavior and it is important to give your cat places to express this. Plan to have at least one scratching post

Feeding

For domestic cats, food intake depends on several factors. Cats prefer eating in a calm space, away from sight and predators, with a clear route of escape.

Only high quality foods, specifically prepared for cats can be guaranteed to provide all the nutrients they need to stay healthy, whatever their age, breed, lifestyle or sensitivities.

While we benefit from variety in our diet, frequent and continuous variation is not suited to a cat's digestion

Feeding puzzles are an excellent way to mentally entertain your cat and encourage them to work for their food and exercise their hunting instincts

The hunting behavior plays a large role in how cats eat, which is why they tend to consume multiple small meals throughout the day rather than in one or two large feeds

Cats have a very high requirement for protein including a number of essential amino acids, one of which is taurine, found naturally only in animal tissue

Fat is an important energy source for cats, with a greater proportion of daily calories provided by fats than is recommended for humans

Cats also have very particular vitamin and mineral requirements, such as vitamin D, which they can only source from their diet

As a newborn, your kitten's digestive tract was perfectly suited to digesting milk specifically formulated for kittens, but their digestive capacities will change and by the time they come into adulthood they will no longer be able to digest lactose

Grooming

Apart from looking good, a brushed coat contains less dead hair, meaning less is available to be removed by your cat while grooming. This has its benefits as with grooming activity constituting an average of 30% of your cat's time, it leads to ingestion of shed hair, leading to hairballs and sometimes digestive issues.

Cats with longer hair such as the Persian require careful untangling of the coat with a good-quality comb every day.

In short and flat hair cats (such as the Siamese or the Abyssinian), a few firm strokes of the hand is sometimes all that's needed.

Passing a soft brush through the coat once a week is recommended for a medium-length coat or hair with a thick undercoat (such as in the Maine Coon or Exotic Shorthair).

Dental

Good oral health starts off when your kitten is young.

When they come home, kittens will still have their milk teeth. These baby teeth are quite fragile, so kibble needs to be softer and easier to break open than an older cat's.

Some wet foods have been specially formulated for kittens with an excellent texture, adapted to their sensitive teeth

Toothbrushing is the gold standard for oral care, and using a special cat toothbrush and veterinary toothpaste is recommended.

Health

The health and well-being of your cat involves a wide variety of factors, from preventative vaccinations and tablets to insurance and even whether or not to neuter your pet. Some of these costs are isolated, and others need to be considered as part of an ongoing budget alongside nutrition and grooming.

Cats are routinely vaccinated against feline panleukopenia virus, feline herpesvirus and feline calicivirus. The vaccination course consists of two injections, given three to four weeks apart. Your cat may have already had their first injection before they come to you, as the first dose can be given from the age of about nine weeks

Microchipping is the painless insertion of a microchip under the skin on the neck and means that any vet or cat rescue organization can "read" the chip with a handheld scanner. Your vet can perform the procedure at any of your routine appointments

It is important to prevent your cat from getting fleas, worms or ticks. A good breeder will have started an anti-parasite program from the very beginning of the cat's life and most rescue centers will also start a good worming and flea treatment regime for all of the animals in their care. It's important that you ask the person you are getting your kitten or cat from what treatments your new cat has had in the past

Neutering is one of the most responsible decisions any pet owner can make. Cats have traditionally been neutered any time from around six months of age

It's important to arrange annual check-ups with your vet to help prevent any health issues and monitor weight and behavioral changes

Training

The majority of a kitten's education takes place during the first six months of their life. Most behavior is acquired in the first three months, thanks to the predominant role of their mother and siblings.

That means that when you bring a cat home, you have a limited contribution to make to their basic education, but you still have responsibilities. Your job is to complete their training in their new environment and to address the undesirable behavior.

Insurance

Insurance offers peace of mind that you will be able to provide the care your cat needs should a crisis happen.

Pet insurers offer different levels of coverage, and prices vary according to your cat's age, breed or size and type, as well as your location.

Find the right cover for you and your kitten by:

Using the internet to compare packages

Ask your vet

Look in pet magazines

It can be overwhelming at first to prepare for all the things needed to take care of your cat or kitten, but by starting properly you will help them adjust to their new home and maintain a happy and healthy life.

14 Dos and Don’ts for Handling Your Cat!

Although we love to show affection to our cats - and they often love to receive it, when it comes to being stroked and petted, most of them appreciate brief periods of interaction. Being handled and touched can be an acquired sensation for cats! Socializing and handling kittens from a young age (2-7 weeks) and beyond, can help them learn to enjoy physical interaction and attention from you.

Of course, all cats have their own character and their own preferences. While some love being stroked, others prefer a chin tickle. Some are lap cats, and others are just as happy to sit by your side on the sofa.

If you’re not sure where to begin with your cat interactions and handling, use these ‘CAT’ guidelines for interacting with your cat:

C = choice and control. Allow your cat to make the choice of whether to interact with you or not, and enable them to be in control of the situation at all times, being free to decide for themselves when they want to move away.

A = attention. Be aware of body language signs (such as tail flicking) that indicate your cat thinks it’s time to stop. Some cats find too much petting or stroking overwhelming; one minute they can be purring, and the next they may give you a ‘love bite’ (sometimes called petting aggression).

T = think where you are touching your cat. Many cats prefer to be stroked gently around the head and ears, but always stop every few seconds to check if they are happy that you continue, or if they want to walk away.

Let’s look at some dos and don’ts for handling your cat.

The most important thing when it comes to interacting with your cat is to understand their body language. Get to know when they are ready to interact with you and understand when they really want to be left alone.

The dos

1. Learn how to handle a cat.

If you do need to pick up your cat, always make sure they feel safe and supported underneath (with one hand supporting their chest and the other supporting their rump), and avoid dangling them in the air. Do not scruff your cat, i.e. grab them by the skin at the back of the neck. Be careful and gentle when placing them on the ground too - some cats may be keen to jump or wriggle out of your arms from a height, but try to avoid this to prevent any injury.

2. Understand the best places to stroke a cat.

When stroking your cat, always let them approach you, and then gently stroke them around their head. On the top of the head, around the cheeks, the base of the ears, and under their chin may be favorite spots!

3. Create a reassuring environment

As well as making sure their resources (food, water, litter tray, comfy bed and toys) are always nearby.

4. Get down to their level

Remember how much bigger you are than your cat! They could see you as a threat, so try to get down to their level if possible, or sit beside them on the sofa. They will feel less intimidated that way, especially if they are just getting to know you.

5. Be aware of strong perfume

Be mindful of scent – avoid wearing strong smelling perfume, for example, as cats have a sensitive sense of smell and may find this aversive.

6. Use training

Did you know it is possible to train a cat? Training can help your cat tolerate activities such as handling in different situations – grooming, nail clipping, visits to the vet, etc. Regular, short training sessions will help your cat to adjust to being handled regularly.

7. Supervise children

Children will get excited around cats and want to touch and hold them! So teaching them to be gentle, to stroke in the right places, and to avoid picking cats up or squeezing them is essential!

8. Recognize the signs that your cat is enjoying being handled

Purring. This is the most obvious one and one that most people will recognise. But there are different purrs, so learn to understand the difference between a happy and an unhappy purr.

Kneading. You may have seen your cat ‘making bread’ with their paws! This is a natural instinct that a kitten learns when they are still in their litter with their mother.

Rubbing against you. This is a sign that your cat is happy to interact with you, but it doesn’t mean that they want to be handled. Allow your cat to approach you on their terms and they will then probably rub against your legs to leave their scent and pheromones on you – a good indication that they are happy to be with you.

Moving their head to encourage more stroking (a nudge!). This means they are enjoying their interaction with you, and you have learned where they like to be stroked.

No body tension. Learn to ‘speak cat’ and you will recognise that when your cat’s eyes are closed or half-closed, they are normally feeling relaxed. Their ears will also be facing forward, with their whiskers relaxed, too.

The slow blink. You may be surprised to know that when you are handling and stroking your cat, and they close and open their eyes slowly, it’s not because they are feeling sleepy, but they are smiling at you! This is a good indication that they are enjoying their time with you.

9. Be aware of changes

If your cat reacts differently to your normal interactions, and they seem uncomfortable with the way you would normally handle them, it would be wise to contact your vet as there may be a medical reason, such as a painful area, which could be the cause.

The don’ts

10. Don’t ignore signs that your cat doesn’t want to be stroked

Stroking a cat at the base of their tail or their belly can provoke negative responses, so refrain stroking in these areas. Signs that they are not wanting to be touched can include:

A swishing tail

Skin and fur twitching over their back

Ears flat against their head

Dilated pupils

Tense appearance

A low growl (not a purr)

They will walk away

They might even start to groom themselves as if to say, “Sorry, I’m busy at the moment!”

However, different cats will respond in different ways, so get to know your cat and only handle them when you see positive signs.

11. Avoid loud noises

Choose the right time and place to handle your cat. Make sure you create a calm environment and that there are no sudden noises which could startle them.

12. Don’t make assumptions

Consider your cat’s personality and needs, and don’t assume they want to be petted just because you want to. They may prefer some time playing together rather than being stroked, or they may prefer to sit close to you, rather than on your lap. Find out what your cat’s likes (and dislikes) are.

13. Do not use force

If your cat shows signs that they are not comfortable with being handled, do not force or reprimand them, as this will make the situation worse. Cats don’t like to be restrained, so allow them to move away when they want to. Having a choice is important!

14. Respect their no-go areas

Avoid areas that your cat doesn’t like being touched. E.g. cats generally do not like to have their belly touched, even if they feel comfortable enough to show it to you. Be aware that the base of a cat’s tail is very sensitive, so even if your cat appears to be comfortable with you touching this area, you should be gentle, otherwise this interaction can become unpleasant for them.

How to Speak & Communicate with Your Cat

How to understand cat communications.

Sure, your cat may not speak English, but she definitely knows how to communicate. It’s up to you to learn how to interpret her various cute sounds — and her feline body language.  

Once you understand CatSpeak 101, you’ll know when she’s hungry, when she’s playful — and when she needs some “me” time.

Vocalizations

Meow: This complex call is generally associated with greetings “hello” or care-seeking events: “feed me,” “pet me,” “let me out,” etc. Interestingly, cats don’t meow to other cats — except for baby cats (infant kittens). Blind and deaf at birth, baby cats meow to get their mother’s attention (mostly because they’re hungry or cold).  Domestic cats understood that this was also a good way to get the attention of their people. There are even specific meows for “Feed me, human!,” “Play with me, human!” and “Let me out, human!” 

Purr: We think this is probably the best sound in the world. Generally, the soft rhythmic noise means “I’m so happy right now” or “Life is great, isn’t it? I’m full of contentment.”   Since purring is thought to also have self-soothing and healing properties for cats, purring might also be used if a cat is in pain. Want to know more about why cats purr? 

Hiss: This is a defensive vocalization that translates into “I’m worried, back off” or “I’m scared, stop what you are doing.” This is your second-to-last warning, often followed by a growl if things get scary for the cat. 

Growl: This means “back off” or “stop what you are doing.” This is often your last warning before Attack Cat launches at you with claws and teeth. 

Trill: This is a sweet, high-pitched sound that translates to “Hello! I’m so glad to see you. Gimme a little pet,” often followed by rubbing against your leg and arching up for a nice petting. Cats will greet both their humans and other cats in this affectionate way. 

Chatter: This chattering of the teeth is usually associated with hunting, often seen when a cat sees prey but can’t get to it — such as looking at a bird out a window. It probably means “I’m so excited but I’m also frustrated.” 

Yowl: We think this might be one of the worst sounds in the world. It means either that a cat is in pain, or in unfixed cats, calling (loudly) for some sexy time. An easy way to fix this and be a responsible cat parent? Fix your cat.

Body language

Tail up: “Hi there! I’m happy, confident and comfortable.” 

Slow blink: You’ll see this often as your cat gazes into your eyes. It’s the equivalent of a kitty kiss, and it means “I love being around you.” 

Swat: “Quit annoying me.” This active strike with the front feet may have the claws exposed or shielded depending upon how strongly the cat wants to relay the message. 

Ears flattened against the head: “I’m scared/angry/upset.” Even though Kitty may be frightened, she’s also angry, so best to give her some space. 

Tail and back arched: Think of this as the Halloween Cat Posture. It means “I’m scared/defensive/unpleasantly surprised.” 

Tail tucked: “I’m uncomfortable and unsure.” 

Tail fluffed/bristled: When all the tail hair fluffs up and makes the tail look like a feather duster. This means “I’m scared, upset and unpleasantly surprised.” 

Roll over: This one’s a tricky move. Sometimes this is an invitation to rub the belly or chest (if you know your cat well), but it’s often a defensive posture that allows Kitty to give you a beatdown with all twenty claws. Some cats like to use their cute bellies as a lure…and then attack! Don’t fall for the cuteness unless you know your cat well enough to know when she wants a genuine belly rub or when it’s just a sneaky ruse. 

Mouth ajar, eyes slightly closed: Does your cat just look like it smelled something bad or is about to sneeze? Welcome to the Flehmen Response. This is when the mouth is held half open for an extended period after the cat has investigated an item/scent.  

Rubbing against furniture or you: Basically, rubbing is a way a happy cat marks her territory. As in “This couch is mine. This table is mine. This human is mine.” So, the cat is basically owning you — which means she loves you (usually more than she loves the table). 

Head butts: Nope, not the violent type of head butt that results in brain injury. This is instead a happy greeting, a gesture of love, a meeting of the minds as it were. Want to get a head butt from a fuzzy feline? Make your hand into a fist, curled fingers down, and extend it slowly toward the cat. If the cat is happy and friendly feeling, you’ll get a head butt to the fist.

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Most recent revision May 25, 2025 11:36:46 AM