As cat owners, we love to show our furry friends how much we care by
sharing our food with them. However, not all human foods are safe for
cats to consume. In fact, many of the foods that we enjoy can be
extremely dangerous and even deadly for our feline friends. It’s
important to be aware of the foods that are toxic to cats and to keep
them out of reach. In this article, we’ll explore the 10 most
dangerous foods that you should never feed your cats. From chocolate
and onions to grapes and raisins, we’ll cover the reasons why these
foods can be harmful and the symptoms to watch out for if you suspect
your cat has ingested any of them. By being informed and taking the
necessary precautions, we can help keep our feline friends happy,
healthy, and safe. Check out most hazardous foods for cats.
10 – Chocolate
Chocolate contains theobromine, which is toxic to cats. The darker the
chocolate, the higher the concentration of theobromine, making it more
dangerous. Symptoms of chocolate poisoning in cats include vomiting,
diarrhea, increased thirst, and restlessness. In severe cases, it can
cause seizures, heart problems, and death.
09 – Onions and Garlic
Both onions and garlic contain compounds that can damage a cat’s red
blood cells, leading to anemia. Eating even small amounts can cause
damage, and the effects are cumulative, so it’s best to avoid giving
your cat these foods altogether.
08 – Grapes and Raisins
Although the exact cause is unknown, grapes and raisins can cause kidney
failure in cats. Even a small amount can be toxic, so it’s important to
keep them away from your feline friends.
07- Alcohol
Alcohol can cause severe health problems in cats, including vomiting,
diarrhea, and even death. Just a small amount can lead to serious health
problems, so it’s best to keep it far away from your cats.
06 – Cooked Bones
Cooked bones can splinter and cause blockages or tears in a cat’s
digestive system. They can also cause choking.
05 – Avocados
Avocados contain persin, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea in cats.
They are also high in fat, which can lead to pancreatitis.
04 – Fatty Foods
Fatty foods, such as bacon and sausage, can cause digestive problems,
including vomiting and diarrhea. They can also lead to pancreatitis, a
potentially life-threatening condition.
03 – Xylitol
This artificial sweetener, commonly found in sugar-free gum and candies,
can cause a rapid insulin release in cats, leading to hypoglycemia (low
blood sugar). Symptoms of xylitol poisoning include vomiting, loss of
coordination, and seizures.
02 – Raw Fish
Raw fish contains an enzyme that can break down a cat’s thiamine,
leading to a deficiency and potentially life-threatening neurological
problems. It can also contain harmful bacteria that can cause food
poisoning.
01 – Milk and Dairy Products
Although cats are sometimes depicted drinking milk in movies and
cartoons, the truth is that most adult cats are lactose intolerant.
Consuming dairy products can cause digestive upset, including vomiting
and diarrhea.
In conclusion, it’s important to stick to a nutritionally balanced diet
for your feline friends and avoid giving them these 10 dangerous foods.
If you suspect your cat has consumed any of these foods, seek veterinary
care immediately.
How to care for a kitten or cat
There are a number of things that contribute to the well-being of your
cat, and providing for it properly from day one will ensure it is
healthy and adapts well to its new home.
There are a number of things that contribute to the well-being of your
cat, and providing for it properly from day one will ensure it is
healthy and adapts well to its new home.
Important items
When you first bring your cat home, you will need the basics. These
include:
Baskets: This means comfortable bedding where the
kitten or cat will be comfortable and safe. Raise it off the ground,
preferably, somewhere where the kitten will feel safe, away from any
drafts or areas where there is too much coming and going.
Litter boxes: This needs to be deep enough and with
a small shovel to remove the stool, although not too deep that
kittens are dissuaded from using it.
Water bowls: A bowl of fresh water should be
available to your cat at all times. Water fountains are available as
an alternative to bowls as cats are known to particularly enjoy the
movement and it encourages them to drink more.
Food bowls: You should ensure you have a small bowl
for kibbles, placed far enough away from the water bowl to prevent
it getting dirty. Alternatively, a feeding puzzle can be introduced,
especially if you have an indoor car, to provide mental and physical
stimulation, fulfilling their natural hunting instinct. With these
puzzles, a transition period is necessary for your cat to learn how
to use them.
A cat tree: An accessory that is both fun and useful
for your cat and will allow them to scratch, climb and hide safely,
and will contribute to the positive well-being of your cat by
respecting their natural instincts.
It's recommended to get more than one of each item and disperse them
around the home to offer your new cat choice and allow them to find a
quiet space away from visitors or loud noises, should they need to.
Environment
Environment is an important part of the health and well-being of your
cat. A favorable environment is one in which the cat can become safely
socialized without too many problems, and that helps them get used to
the people and the things around them.
Even when it is very young, your cat will organize and mark out its
territory. This is where it will sleep, play, hunt, feed, hide,
climb and be cuddled. In its home, your cat organizes its life around
four different areas which you need to respect to avoid behavior
problems, particularly for indoor cats.
Feeding areas: These must be in quiet areas, away from its litter
box and from your own eating area. It is better to avoid using the
dining room or areas where they may be disturbed and allow your cat
plenty of space when eati
Resting area: The place will vary in the course of the
day depending on the sunlight and sources of heat. By nature, cats
like to sleep up high, and will often choose the spot that suits
them most, so make sure they have plenty of free space to choose
from.
Cleaning area: The litter box must be placed somewhere
quiet and permanently accessible by your cat, away from its food
bowl and places where there is a lot of coming and going. Be careful
to avoid any source of stress: cats have been known to become
unclean because the litter box was installed next to the washing
machine. At least one litter tray per cat, plus one spare, is
recommended to give each cat plenty of choice and avoid these
issues.
Play area: This is your cat's largest living space and
relaxation area. It must be a place where it can race around, hide
or perch high up. Cat trees are excellent accessories to encourage
this activity and support your cat's health and well-being.
Exercise
Cats who stay indoors need plenty of activity to remain physically and
mentally stimulated. That means:
Lots of toys, rotated from time to time to keep them interested,
things to climb and hide in, and regular playtimes with the family
every day
Because they groom more and tend to be more sedentary, indoor cats,
especially those with long hair, need a diet that can help with
hairballs and reflects their lower activity levels
You may not welcome the scars your cat can leave on your furniture
or walls. However, scratching is a natural behavior and it is
important to give your cat places to express this. Plan to have at
least one scratching post
Feeding
For domestic cats, food intake depends on several factors. Cats prefer
eating in a calm space, away from sight and predators, with a clear
route of escape.
Only high quality foods, specifically prepared for cats can be
guaranteed to provide all the nutrients they need to stay healthy,
whatever their age, breed, lifestyle or sensitivities.
While we benefit from variety in our diet, frequent and continuous
variation is not suited to a cat's digestion
Feeding puzzles are an excellent way to mentally entertain your cat
and encourage them to work for their food and exercise their hunting
instincts
The hunting behavior plays a large role in how cats eat, which is
why they tend to consume multiple small meals throughout the day
rather than in one or two large feeds
Cats have a very high requirement for protein including a number of
essential amino acids, one of which is taurine, found naturally only
in animal tissue
Fat is an important energy source for cats, with a greater
proportion of daily calories provided by fats than is recommended
for humans
Cats also have very particular vitamin and mineral requirements,
such as vitamin D, which they can only source from their diet
As a newborn, your kitten's digestive tract was perfectly suited to
digesting milk specifically formulated for kittens, but their
digestive capacities will change and by the time they come into
adulthood they will no longer be able to digest lactose
Grooming
Apart from looking good, a brushed coat contains less dead hair, meaning
less is available to be removed by your cat while grooming. This has its
benefits as with grooming activity constituting an average of 30% of
your cat's time, it leads to ingestion of shed hair, leading to
hairballs and sometimes digestive issues.
Cats with longer hair such as the Persian require careful untangling
of the coat with a good-quality comb every day.
In short and flat hair cats (such as the Siamese or the Abyssinian),
a few firm strokes of the hand is sometimes all that's needed.
Passing a soft brush through the coat once a week is recommended for
a medium-length coat or hair with a thick undercoat (such as in the
Maine Coon or Exotic Shorthair).
Dental
Good oral health starts off when your kitten is young.
When they come home, kittens will still have their milk teeth. These
baby teeth are quite fragile, so kibble needs to be softer and
easier to break open than an older cat's.
Some wet foods have been specially formulated for kittens with an
excellent texture, adapted to their sensitive teeth
Toothbrushing is the gold standard for oral care, and using a
special cat toothbrush and veterinary toothpaste is recommended.
Health
The health and well-being of your cat involves a wide variety of
factors, from preventative vaccinations and tablets to insurance and
even whether or not to neuter your pet. Some of these costs are
isolated, and others need to be considered as part of an ongoing budget
alongside nutrition and grooming.
Cats are routinely vaccinated against feline panleukopenia virus,
feline herpesvirus and feline calicivirus. The vaccination course
consists of two injections, given three to four weeks apart. Your
cat may have already had their first injection before they come to
you, as the first dose can be given from the age of about nine weeks
Microchipping is the painless insertion of a microchip under the
skin on the neck and means that any vet or cat rescue organization
can "read" the chip with a handheld scanner. Your vet can perform
the procedure at any of your routine appointments
It is important to prevent your cat from getting fleas, worms or
ticks. A good breeder will have started an anti-parasite program
from the very beginning of the cat's life and most rescue centers
will also start a good worming and flea treatment regime for all of
the animals in their care. It's important that you ask the person
you are getting your kitten or cat from what treatments your new cat
has had in the past
Neutering is one of the most responsible decisions any pet owner can
make. Cats have traditionally been neutered any time from around six
months of age
It's important to arrange annual check-ups with your vet to help
prevent any health issues and monitor weight and behavioral changes
Training
The majority of a kitten's education takes place during the first six
months of their life. Most behavior is acquired in the first three
months, thanks to the predominant role of their mother and siblings.
That means that when you bring a cat home, you have a limited
contribution to make to their basic education, but you still have
responsibilities. Your job is to complete their training in their new
environment and to address the undesirable behavior.
Insurance
Insurance offers peace of mind that you will be able to provide the care
your cat needs should a crisis happen.
Pet insurers offer different levels of coverage, and prices vary
according to your cat's age, breed or size and type, as well as your
location.
Find the right cover for you and your kitten by:
Using the internet to compare packages
Ask your vet
Look in pet magazines
It can be overwhelming at first to prepare for all the things needed to
take care of your cat or kitten, but by starting properly you will help
them adjust to their new home and maintain a happy and healthy life.
14 Dos and Don’ts for Handling Your Cat!
Although we love to show affection to our cats - and they often love
to receive it, when it comes to being stroked and petted, most of
them appreciate brief periods of interaction. Being handled and
touched can be an acquired sensation for cats! Socializing and
handling kittens from a young age (2-7 weeks) and beyond, can help
them learn to enjoy physical interaction and attention from you.
Of course, all cats have their own character and their own
preferences. While some love being stroked, others prefer a chin
tickle. Some are lap cats, and others are just as happy to sit by
your side on the sofa.
If you’re not sure where to begin with your cat interactions
and handling, use
these ‘CAT’ guidelines
for interacting with your cat:
C = choice
and control.
Allow your cat to make the choice of whether to interact with
you or not, and enable them to be in control of the situation at
all times, being free to decide for themselves when they want to
move away.
A =
attention.
Be aware of body language signs (such as tail flicking) that
indicate your cat thinks it’s time to stop. Some cats find too
much petting or stroking overwhelming; one minute they can be
purring, and the next they may give you a ‘love bite’ (sometimes
called petting aggression).
T =
think where you are touching your cat. Many
cats prefer to be stroked gently around the head and ears, but
always stop every few seconds to check if they are happy that
you continue, or if they want to walk away.
Let’s look at some dos and don’ts for handling your cat.
The most important thing when it comes to interacting with your cat
is to understand their body language. Get to know when they are
ready to interact with you and understand when they really want to
be left alone.
The dos
1. Learn how to handle a cat.
If you do need to pick up your cat, always make sure they feel safe and
supported underneath (with one hand supporting their chest and the other
supporting their rump), and avoid dangling them in the air. Do not
scruff your cat, i.e. grab them by the skin at the back of the neck. Be
careful and gentle when placing them on the ground too - some cats may
be keen to jump or wriggle out of your arms from a height, but try to
avoid this to prevent any injury.
2. Understand the best places to stroke a cat.
When stroking your cat, always let them approach you, and then
gently stroke them around their head. On the top of the head, around
the cheeks, the base of the ears, and under their chin may be
favorite spots!
3. Create a reassuring environment
As well as making sure their resources (food, water, litter
tray, comfy bed and toys) are always nearby.
4. Get down to their level
Remember how much bigger you are than your cat! They could see you
as a threat, so try to get down to their level if possible, or sit
beside them on the sofa. They will feel less intimidated that way,
especially if they are just getting to know you.
5. Be aware of strong perfume
Be mindful of scent – avoid wearing strong smelling perfume, for
example, as cats have a sensitive sense of smell and may find this
aversive.
6. Use training
Did you know it is possible to train a cat? Training can help your
cat tolerate activities such as handling in different situations –
grooming, nail clipping, visits to the vet, etc. Regular, short
training sessions will help your cat to adjust to being handled
regularly.
7. Supervise children
Children will get excited around cats and want to touch and hold
them! So teaching them to be gentle, to stroke in the right places,
and to avoid picking cats up or squeezing them is essential!
8. Recognize the signs that your cat is enjoying being handled
Purring. This is the most obvious one and one that most people
will recognise. But there are different purrs, so learn to
understand the difference between a happy and an unhappy purr.
Kneading. You may have seen your cat ‘making bread’ with their
paws! This is a natural instinct that a kitten learns when they
are still in their litter with their mother.
Rubbing against you. This is a sign that your cat is happy to
interact with you, but it doesn’t mean that they want to be
handled. Allow your cat to approach you on their terms and they
will then probably rub against your legs to leave their scent
and pheromones on you – a good indication that they are happy to
be with you.
Moving their head to encourage more stroking (a nudge!). This
means they are enjoying their interaction with you, and you have
learned where they like to be stroked.
No body tension. Learn to ‘speak cat’ and you will recognise
that when your cat’s eyes are closed or half-closed, they are
normally feeling relaxed. Their ears will also be facing
forward, with their whiskers relaxed, too.
The slow blink. You may be surprised to know that when you are
handling and stroking your cat, and they close and open their
eyes slowly, it’s not because they are feeling sleepy, but they
are smiling at you! This is a good indication that they are
enjoying their time with you.
9. Be aware of changes
If your cat reacts differently to your normal interactions, and they
seem uncomfortable with the way you would normally handle them, it
would be wise to contact your vet as there may be a medical reason,
such as a painful area, which could be the cause.
The don’ts
10. Don’t ignore signs that your cat doesn’t want to be stroked
Stroking a cat at the base of their tail or their belly can provoke
negative responses, so refrain stroking in these areas. Signs that
they are not wanting to be touched can include:
A swishing tail
Skin and fur twitching over their back
Ears flat against their head
Dilated pupils
Tense appearance
A low growl (not a purr)
They will walk away
They might even start to groom themselves as if to say, “Sorry,
I’m busy at the moment!”
However, different cats will respond in different ways, so get to
know your cat and only handle them when you see positive signs.
11. Avoid loud noises
Choose the right time and place to handle your cat. Make sure you
create a calm environment and that there are no sudden noises which
could startle them.
12. Don’t make assumptions
Consider your cat’s personality and needs, and don’t assume they
want to be petted just because you want
to. They may prefer some time playing together rather than being
stroked, or they may prefer to sit close to you, rather than on your
lap. Find out what your cat’s likes (and dislikes) are.
13. Do not use force
If your cat shows signs that they are not comfortable with being
handled, do not force or reprimand them, as this will make the
situation worse. Cats don’t like to be restrained, so allow them to
move away when they want to. Having a choice is important!
14. Respect their no-go areas
Avoid areas that your cat doesn’t like being touched. E.g. cats
generally do not like to have their belly touched, even if they feel
comfortable enough to show it to you. Be aware that the base of a
cat’s tail is very sensitive, so even if your cat appears to be
comfortable with you touching this area, you should be gentle,
otherwise this interaction can become unpleasant for them.
How to Speak & Communicate with Your Cat
How to understand cat communications.
Sure, your cat may not speak English, but she definitely
knows how to communicate. It’s up to you to learn how to
interpret her various cute sounds — and her feline body
language.
Once you understand CatSpeak 101, you’ll know when she’s
hungry, when she’s playful — and when she needs some “me”
time.
Vocalizations
Meow: This complex call is generally associated with
greetings “hello” or care-seeking events: “feed me,”
“pet me,” “let me out,” etc. Interestingly, cats don’t
meow to other cats — except for baby cats (infant
kittens). Blind and deaf at birth, baby cats meow to get
their mother’s attention (mostly because they’re hungry
or cold). Domestic cats understood that this was also a good way
to get the attention of their people. There are even
specific meows for “Feed me, human!,” “Play with me,
human!” and “Let me out, human!”
Purr: We think this is probably the best sound in the
world. Generally, the soft rhythmic noise means “I’m so
happy right now” or “Life is great, isn’t it? I’m full
of contentment.” Since purring is thought to also have
self-soothing and healing properties for cats, purring
might also be used if a cat is in pain. Want to know
more about why cats purr?
Hiss: This is a defensive vocalization that translates
into “I’m worried, back off” or “I’m scared, stop what
you are doing.” This is your second-to-last warning,
often followed by a growl if things get scary for the
cat.
Growl: This means “back off” or “stop what you are
doing.” This is often your last warning before Attack
Cat launches at you with claws and teeth.
Trill: This is a sweet, high-pitched sound that
translates to “Hello! I’m so glad to see you. Gimme a
little pet,” often followed by rubbing against your leg
and arching up for a nice petting. Cats will greet both
their humans and other cats in this affectionate way.
Chatter: This chattering of the teeth is usually
associated with hunting, often seen when a cat sees prey
but can’t get to it — such as looking at a bird out a
window. It probably means “I’m so excited but I’m also
frustrated.”
Yowl: We think this might be one of the worst sounds in
the world. It means either that a cat is in pain, or in
unfixed cats, calling (loudly) for some sexy time. An
easy way to fix this and be a responsible cat parent?
Fix your cat.
Body language
Tail up: “Hi there! I’m happy, confident and
comfortable.”
Slow blink: You’ll see this often as your cat gazes into
your eyes. It’s the equivalent of a kitty kiss, and it
means “I love being around you.”
Swat: “Quit annoying me.” This active strike with the
front feet may have the claws exposed or shielded
depending upon how strongly the cat wants to relay the
message.
Ears flattened against the head: “I’m
scared/angry/upset.” Even though Kitty may be
frightened, she’s also angry, so best to give her some
space.
Tail and back arched: Think of this as the Halloween Cat
Posture. It means “I’m scared/defensive/unpleasantly
surprised.”
Tail tucked: “I’m uncomfortable and unsure.”
Tail fluffed/bristled: When all the tail hair fluffs up
and makes the tail look like a feather duster. This
means “I’m scared, upset and unpleasantly surprised.”
Roll over: This one’s a tricky move. Sometimes this is
an invitation to rub the belly or chest (if you know
your cat well), but it’s often a defensive posture that
allows Kitty to give you a beatdown with all twenty
claws. Some cats like to use their cute bellies as a
lure…and then attack! Don’t fall for the cuteness unless
you know your cat well enough to know when she wants a
genuine belly rub or when it’s just a sneaky ruse.
Mouth ajar, eyes slightly closed: Does your cat just
look like it smelled something bad or is about to
sneeze? Welcome to the Flehmen Response. This is when
the mouth is held half open for an extended period after
the cat has investigated an item/scent.
Rubbing against furniture or you: Basically, rubbing is
a way a happy cat marks her territory. As in “This couch
is mine. This table is mine. This human is mine.” So,
the cat is basically owning you — which means she loves
you (usually more than she loves the table).
Head butts: Nope, not the violent type of head butt that
results in brain injury. This is instead a happy
greeting, a gesture of love, a meeting of the minds as
it were. Want to get a head butt from a fuzzy feline?
Make your hand into a fist, curled fingers down, and
extend it slowly toward the cat. If the cat is happy and
friendly feeling, you’ll get a head butt to the fist.